William's RSS

A Beach of My Own

By William on Thu, Jan 22nd 09 at 05:31PM | Permalink | Comments (18)

For the past 2 weeks, I have been attempting to surf.  I emphasize the word "attempting" because up until this week I have been quite unsuccessful.  Every time I went, I just got frustrated.

The beaches in Sydney and in Newcastle are all quite crowded, which means the places with good surfing waves are full of people.  This makes it extremely difficult for a beginner.  I spent pretty much the entire time paddling around trying to find a gap in the people where I could try and catch a wave.  Then I would be so tired from paddling that when I tried to actually catch a wave I would be unable to get up the necessary speed or someone would have moved in front of me so I was too afraid to ride the wave for fear of hitting someone.

I kept this up for almost 2 weeks, determined to get the hang of it but becoming more and more frustrated.

Then I discovered Glenrock Beach.  I had checked it out once before, and it was full of kids from the nearby Scout Camp, so I didn't bother trying to surf.  But on Monday, I went back after seeing more people at the major beaches than any previous day.  There wasn't anyone at Glenrock.  It was just me and a small family (not surfing) on the whole beautiful beach, and perfect waves rolling in just asking me to ride them.

Excitedly I threw on my wetsuit grabbed my board and jumped into the ocean.  I paddled out to where the waves were breaking, spun around and waited for the next wave to break.  Then the unthinkable happened.  I actually caught the wave, and stood up.  Just like that.  I rode the wave almost all the way to the shore.  Then I paddled back out, and did it again.  I was actually surfing!  I couldn't believe how easy it was.  For almost 2 hours I caught one wave after another.  Half the time I was laughing out loud, overcome with excitement.  Surfing is just too much fun.

Comments

nick waters wrote on January 22nd 09 at 05:51PM
Hahaha! That's awesome, William. Congrats on your accomplishment!

Any possibility we readers could see a future video post of your efforts?
SammyK wrote on January 22nd 09 at 06:40PM
Dude, that's awesome! I need to get some video footage of you doing that.
Ashlee wrote on January 22nd 09 at 06:43PM
Sounds like a lot of fun!!
Ryan wrote on January 22nd 09 at 06:52PM
I'm glad you were successful in your adventure!\w/
Scott wrote on January 22nd 09 at 10:49PM
Sweet action, dude!!!
Mom wrote on January 23rd 09 at 10:40AM
I am really excited for you!!! Hope to see some pictures!
Mary Audrey wrote on January 23rd 09 at 07:16PM
Never once when I was there was a Newcastle beach crowded! That's crazy! Congrats, though. Did you have someone helping you, or did you teach yourself?
Matthew wrote on January 24th 09 at 08:34AM
William, that is great. Funny cause I had so much trouble trying to surf in San Diego as well, but the first time I was able to, I was hooked - unbelievable feeling.
Pat wrote on January 25th 09 at 11:46AM
wow...another thing that you are better than me at...
Braeden wrote on January 25th 09 at 05:00PM
william!
i miss you! thats so awesome! i can totally picture you in that moment. soo cool
David P wrote on January 30th 09 at 01:35PM
That's really inspiring, man. Maybe I'll give surfing a try at Santa Cruz this summer, it's only 30 minutes away from me.
Jamie Powers wrote on February 3rd 09 at 04:05AM
Yay William!
sara wrote on February 5th 09 at 12:49PM
good to hear you guys are still having the time of your life :) looking forward to seeing you around on your trip somewhere!
Dale wrote on February 7th 09 at 08:37AM
Grew up on Padre Island, Tx and I can remember FINALLY being able to stand up on a "stick" and I too remember yelling and screaming that I did it.

CONGRATS!!
Collins P wrote on February 13th 09 at 09:05PM
Awesome dude,

I remember the first time I caught a wave in and the excitement was paramount. It still remains one of the hardest sports in my opinion, and I've done them all!

Safe Travels!

-Collins P
http://www.vagabondbible.com
Rachel & Patrick Hugens wrote on February 21st 09 at 07:26AM
Happy Travels William
Mark H wrote on February 25th 09 at 05:57PM
From a Sydney-sider congratulations. It is one of the most exhilirating feelings.
scott wrote on October 21st 09 at 06:58PM
wot up will my home dogg
The incredible story of how two recent college grads are traveling around the world on an impossible budget.
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